COLOMBIA

We booked our first four nights in Bogota. With all the appealing day trips near Bogota, we could have easily spent our entire 8-day vacation here. We had planned a one-day trip (to Chingaza National Park), but we liked Bogota so much that we decided to spend a full three days in the city.

The first decision in planning our visit was whether to stay in Candelaria or Chapinero. Candelaria is the historical center, having the lion's share of Bogota's sightseeing attractions. Nevertheless, Chapinero (where we stayed) has advantages. It is a prime residential area, and staying here gives a glimpse into what it is like to live in Bogota. It also has a good selection of restaurants. Chapinero is roughly 3 miles to the north of Candelaria. Taxis are incredibly inexpensive, which we think diminishes the value of staying in the center.

There are many things to do in Bogota. The following is just a short list of our recommendations:

• Monserrate - The best views of Bogota are from this religious site that sits atop the steep hill on the city's eastern border. We chose to climb the pedestrian path that leads there, although there is also a cable car and a funicular. The hike up is quite challenging. It took us considerably longer than the hour estimate that we found online. We would highly recommend taking the path in at least one direction. The tropical nature makes it very enjoyable. Also, there are many food vendors at various points on the trail. During Easter weekend, this excursion is extremely popular among the locals.

• Bike Tours - A few companies in Bogota offer bike tours. We signed up for a city bike tour at Bogota Bike Tours. They advertise the ride lasts "4 to 5 hours," but like everything in Colombia, cited schedules are seldom accurate. Our trip ran overtime by nearly an hour. We recommend this activity as the top item on an itinerary for anyone visiting Bogota for the first time. The route takes you around Candelaria and its peripheral neighborhoods. The company provides very knowledgeable guides, and the price is a steal. One word of caution: Put on sunscreen before getting on the bike. The often cool and overcast weather can be deceptive. The sun rays at Bogota's high altitude are powerful, and any exposed skin will get burnt! For information on Bogota Bike Tours, click on the following link. www.bogotabiketours.com/tours/daily.html

• Paloquemao Fruit Market - This is the best farmer's market in Bogota and perhaps in all of Colombia. It has the most comprehensive variety of exotic fruits, considerably more than the primary market in Medellin. We did have a fruit-tasting stop on our bike tour, but we recommend also stopping here. A few of the fruits we found here included naranjillas (lulo fruit), papayuelos, curubas, feijoas, tamarillos, and casabananas. The market is on Calle 19, about two kilometers west of Candelaria. It is not near anything else significant, so plan to arrive and leave by taxi.

• The Bogota Museum of Gold - We did not realize we would need COVID-19 vaccination cards, which we had left at our hotel. Thus, this will be at the top of our agenda next time we pass through Bogota. Expect a line when you arrive, because this place is quite popular.

• Chapinero Walking Tour - Whether booking a guided tour or looking up a self-guided tour route, it is worth at least a few hours of strolling through this neighborhood.

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Located within Los Nevados National Park, Valle de Cocora contains a stunning, unique ecosystem of wax palm forests. The wax palm is Colombia's national tree. The most practical way to visit is to book an overnight stay in Salento. Frequent jeep shuttles from Salento's town square make the 7-mile trip to the valley in about 25 minutes. The jeep drops off at a spot about 10-minutes from the entrance to hiking paths. (You continue straight down the road.)

There is both a long and a short hiking trail. The longer hike takes an average of 5 hours. Because we arrived around noon, we hiked the short route. Since this is a cloud forest at a high level in the Andes, the weather can be unpredictable. While we were there, it was chilly and rainy. We were able to rent mud boots at a shop across from where the jeeps stop. Also, there is a nominal cash-only entrance fee at the beginning of the hiking trails. Fortunately, they accepted US dollars. Despite the elements, the scenery makes it well worth the visit.

Colombia's second-largest city is nothing like Bogota. Although it is also an Andes city, it lies in a valley. In sharp contrast, it has tropical temperatures. Travel blogs often feature discussions that debate which of Colombia's two largest cities is the better travel destination. We preferred Medellin, but only with a very slight edge. In addition to its warmer climate, Medellin has an excellent public transportation system. On the flip side, we found that the fruit markets in Bogota had more exotic items. In summary, though, we consider both cities to be must-see attractions.

We booked three nights here. As in Bogota, there is a lot to see, and our few day's stay felt very brief. We think that the best neighborhood to stay in Medellin is the El Poblado neighborhood. It is by far the best area for restaurants. It is also the most popular tourist area.

We signed up for a free, tip-based walking tour of the downtown area. We highly recommend taking one. Although there are also city bike tours, we think a walking tour is the better choice in Medellin.

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