CYPRUS

We spent six days in Cyprus, exclusively in the southern Greek portion of the island. We had intended to spend a couple of nights in the northern Turkish part, but unfortunately, we were turned away at the Northern Cyprus "border" twice. Nevertheless, the Greek part of Cyprus alone has far more than a week's worth of compelling attractions. 

During our stay, we booked accommodations in Paphos, Nicosia, and Ayia Napa.

Travel Tips:

Rent a car. Public transportation is limited, getting to places by taxi is expensive, and rental car prices are very reasonable. Driving in Cyprus is very easy, and there are good highways that allow quick travel from the eastern edge to the western coast. Although some online sources claim you need an international driver's license for renting a car, I had no problem renting with just my US state-issued driver's license.

If you need to change money and cannot find a money changer, many shopkeepers in tourist areas will gladly exchange Euros for US dollars if you ask. We found a couple of money changers in Ayia Napa, but none in Kato Paphos. Everybody was offering the same exchange rate.

If you need good internet service, be very careful when selecting accommodation. One of the places we booked, which was not exactly a budget accommodation, had terrible WiFi even in the common area near the office, where the staff claimed the signal was 'best.' 'Ineffective WiFi' is a common complaint in reviews for many of the hotels.

The Greek name for the capital of Cyprus is Lefkosia. If you are driving there, keep in mind that signs to "Nicosia" never appear on the highways. Nicosia is a unique historic city. I would categorize it as the 'must-see' destination in Cyprus. Its history dates back to the Bronze Age. The center of Nicosia is its Old Town, which is a circular walled city built by the Venetians. It is about 1 mile in diameter. We booked a hotel just inside the Old Town, and thus, just about everything of interest was within walking distance.

There are two border crossing checkpoints in Nicosia. Cars can only cross through the checkpoint located west of Old Town Nicosia. It is very tricky to find that checkpoint without a GPS, and there are no signs on the road to guide drivers to the border crossing. However, you can easily pull over into a gas station, where an attendant will likely be happy to help direct a tourist to the 'occupied territory.' The pedestrian-only crossing on Ledra Street, on the other hand, cannot be missed. Ledra Street is the primary commercial shopping street in Nicosia's Old Town. It is a pedestrianized street lined with restaurants, cafes, and shops.

We spent a few hours strolling around the Old Town. The streets are quiet and pleasant since there is not much car traffic. Of course, the most intriguing part of our visit was the "Green Line Walk." We started outside the Paphos Gate on the western edge of the Old Town and then headed east along the artificial border dividing the city in half. The ''border" consisted of barricaded streets, empty buildings, and in a few places, fences. The Venetians fortified the city with eleven elevated bastions equally spaced apart on its perimeter. The bastion to the north of Paphos Gate is a park on the Turkish side. It is the only place on the Green Line where only a fence separates the two sides. Other top attractions in the Old Town include the three original Venetian city gates, constructed in 1567. (The Kyrenia Gate is in North Nicosia, so we were unable to see that one.) Nicosia is also the cultural capital of the country. If you have a few days to spend, there are plenty of museums. Before exploring the city, we highly recommend getting a copy of: "Nicosia free map for young travellers." It has loads of up-to-date details on local restaurants, shops, history, etc. We found a copy in our hotel lobby, but you can also download it for free. https://www.use-it.travel/cities/detail/nicosia/

Ayia Napa lies on the southeast coast and is the most popular and developed beach destination in Cyprus. In addition to having the most blue-flag beaches, there are many nightclubs, boat tours, a waterpark, and an amusement park. Comparing the two coastal cities, Ayia Napa is the better destination for beaches. In contrast, Paphos is a better destination for sightseeing.

Shortly after we arrived here, we strolled to the harbor to book a snorkeling boat tour for the next day. We opted for a short two-hour morning trip to Cape Greco, the southeasternmost tip of Cyprus. There are longer full-day boat trips that continue around the cape and continue north to the Varosha. Varosha is the abandoned southern Greek quarter of the city of Famagusta in Northern Cyprus. The Greeks who lived there fled it when the Turkish army invaded, and it has effectively become a fenced-off ghost town. We had planned to drive to Famagusta had we been permitted to cross into the north.

A boat trip is the best way to view the picturesque sea caves and cliffs on the southeastern coast. The ticket vendors also claim that there is a possibility of spotting sea turtles and monk seals, although, in reality, such sightings are not likely. Mediterranean monk seals are elusive and an endangered species, and around Cyprus, there are usually very few sightings per year! There was a recent discovery of a secret breeding cave in northern Cyprus, far away from tourist activity. Nevertheless, we were able to view plenty of fish, both from snorkeling and the underwater viewing windows of the boat.