MACEDONIA
Europe's Hidden Gem
This country is officially named North Macedonia due to international politics (to appease Greece.) However, locals and residents in the other former Yugoslav republics omit 'North,' and therefore, so will this website.
This country is one of the least visited in Europe. Thus, it was a big surprise how much we enjoyed our trip here. A list of plusses includes:
- Many fun activities, all within relatively short distances,
- Friendly people,
- There are no crowds,
- The food is outstanding.
In addition, everything is very inexpensive. Overall, a trip here is an unforgettable experience.
Skopje
We spent two nights in Skopje, and in hindsight, we probably should have booked at least one additional night. The capital city of Macedonia is both unique and very pleasant. Skopje has a complex over 2,000-year history, and thus, has many structures that are centuries old. However, a devastating earthquake in 1963 flattened much of the city. Much of the rebuilt central district is controversial, e.g., critics claim the statues are 'kitsch' and that the architectural style lacks historical authenticity. Nevertheless, we thought Skopje was a beautiful and clean city and a nice place to stroll around.
Skopje Fortress is on the tallest hill in the city and has terrific views. The current walls date back to the Byzantine Empire. Admission is free, and sometimes you can find independent tour guides at the entrance.
Adjacent to the fortress is the Old Bazaar. It is the oldest neighborhood in the city, dating back at least to the 12th century. The Ottoman influence is pervasive. It's a good area for lunch.
The Old Railway Station partially collapsed in the 1963 earthquake. The clock on the facade stopped at 5:17 AM when the earthquake struck. It now houses the Museum of the City of Skopje.
Matka Canyon
Matka Canyon is less than 8 miles from the center of Skopje. An easy way to get there is to take bus #60 from the city bus station. Buses run frequently, and the trip takes about 30 minutes. Once the bus reaches the final stop, there is an additional 15 minutes of walking, passing the dam, until you reach the place where you can rent boats.
We spent a half-day here. We rented a double kayak and a single kayak and paddled upstream to visit Vrelo Cave. The round-trip journey took about 2 hours. Another way to travel to the cave is by motorboat. (Note: Boat rides and rental are cash-only.) The canyon is very scenic and filled with wildlife. It's no wonder that this is one of the top tourist attractions in the country. In addition to kayaking, there are also hiking trails, some leading to medieval monasteries. Overall, our day trip to Matka Canyon became the highlight in Macedonia for both the kids.
Although it is possible to return to Skopje via bus, hiring a taxi is less complicated for the return trip. The taxi fare is very reasonable; we paid about $15.
Ohrid
Ohrid is both the name of a Macedonian city and a large lake. Lake Ohrid borders both Macedonia and Albania. The entire region around the lake is a UNESCO World Heritage Site for both nature and culture. The city of Ohrid is a popular vacation destination, given its beaches and a wide variety of activities. Although we only spent two nights here, we would undoubtedly endorse longer stays.
Pictured above, the Church of Saint John the Theologian at Kaneo is the most iconic site along Lake Ohrid. The beach just to the right offers both paddleboard and kayak rentals. The water is chilly but very calm.
Boat day trips are available to visit various interesting sites along the lake. We instead opted to hire a short private 1-hour cruise.
We spent half a day wandering through the old town in Ohrid. Visible from the lake is Samuel's Fortress. It dates back to the 900s.
Bitola
Magnolia Square
Food and Restaurants
The top reason we would return to Macedonia is to try more of their food. Macedonian cuisine includes a diverse array of complex dishes influenced by the different neighboring cultures. Food we tasted here was unlike anywhere else, and just about everything we ate was very good. Even a very simple sounding item such as bread sticks might have a gourmet quality; we ordered some at Old City House Restaurant and were very surprised. We found that there were many good restaurants to choose from. However, we think the following food establishments stood out:
- Old City House, Boulevard Phillip the Second of Macedon 14, Skopje. https://starakuka.mk (Pictured above.) Anyone visiting Macedonia should include a meal at this restaurant on their itinerary. The menu has many traditional Macedonian dishes. Besides great food, the setting and service is top-notch. This was one of the best dining experiences we had in Europe.
- Mikel Coffee, Macedonia Street. www.facebook.com/mikelcoffeemk This isn't just a coffee place. They offer non-coffee iced beverages, like Starbucks, plus a distinctive selection of desserts. Most intriguing, however, is that they also serve a selection of cocktails! Among the choices on their drink menu are gin fizzes, daiquiris, Aperol spritzes, etc. There is a lot of competition for cafes and coffee shops in Skopje, but we liked this place a lot. It is a block away from the Memorial House of Mother Theresa.
- Letna Bavca Kaneo, Kocho Racin 43, Ohrid. http://kaneorestaurant.com This is quite possibly the best restaurant in Ohrid. It is in a quiet spot on the lake near the famous Church of Saint John. They specialize in fresh seafood dishes. They are a bit more expensive than most other restaurants in Macedonia, but unquestionably worth it.
- Fruit Box, St. Clement of Ohrid, Ohrid. www.facebook.com/fruitboxohrid This place is on the main pedestrian street in Ohrid. It sells healthy smoothies and raw vegan deserts.