TURKEY
There are so many appealing destinations in Turkey it was not easy deciding how to allocate our two weeks. Ultimately, we decided to visit Istanbul, Dalyan, Pammukale, Ephesus, and Cappadocia.
Travel Tip: Turkey has a visa requirement for many countries. An e-Visa is cheaper than buying a visa on arrival. However, be careful not to get scammed! (It is true that they recently raised the price from $20 to $50 is also a scam, but that's a different issue.) There are fraudulent websites that look official. They will overcharge by sometimes exorbitant amounts. The following link connects to the official government website www.evisa.gov.tr/en/
Getting Around
Our Route
Turkey is a large country. Fortunately, it has a well-developed domestic transportation network. For starters, the extensive Istanbul Metro network conveniently connects to Ataturk International Airport. We chose this option when arriving to avoid potential city traffic that a taxi might encounter. The trains are very modern and clean, and it was nice to get a glimpse of many neighborhoods in Istanbul on our way to our apartment.
Our travel route within Turkey was primarily based upon the efficiency of transportation logistics. From Istanbul, we took a domestic flight to reach Dalyan. Like many countries outside of the US, domestic flights in Turkey are very inexpensive. For example, a 1-way flight to Dalyan might only cost around $20 on a local Turkish carrier such as Pegasus Airlines. Istanbul has two airports. Most of the better-priced domestic flights will leave from Sabiha Gokcen International Airport, which is all the way to the eastern edge on the Asian side of the city. We caught a Havabus shuttle from Taksim Square in the center of Istanbul.
To get from Dalyan to Pammukale, we traveled by bus. You can take a short 15-minute bus or taxi ride from Dalyan to Ortaca. Then from Ortaca, there are a few buses per day to Denizli. The bus route to Denizli is just under 3 hours and very scenic.
From Pammukale to Ephesus, we traveled by train. Rather than backtracking from Pammukale to Denizli, we took a taxi to the small town of Sarakoy, one stop to the west of Denizli. The train ride to Selcuk (the gateway town to visit Ephesus) takes about 2 hours and 45 minutes.
To reach Cappodocia, our final leg of the trip, we booked a 1-way direct flight from Izmir to Kayseri. There are direct flights between these cities on only 3 days per week. That had to be factored into the scheduling. Continuing along the train route that we took from Denizli, there is a stop for the Izmir Airport, 1 hour and 15 minutes from Selcuk.
There are numerous direct flights from Kayseri to Istanbul. We decided to book an additional night in Istanbul before catching our return flight to the US.
Saraykoy train station
Istanbul
COMING SOON
Dalyan
For those who want a vacation by the sea, there are many very compelling coastal destinations in Turkey from which to choose. If we had more days to spend in Turkey, I would have enthusiastically added a second coastal town to our itinerary. With only enough time to visit one, Dalyan stood out for having a great diversity of sights and activities. Also, its location fit in well with the rest of our Turkish itinerary.
Dalyan is a 30-minute taxi ride from Dalaman Airport. It is a river town, where all the local sites, including the beach, are easily reached by boat. The town is about 3 miles from the sea, or 4 miles upstream. (The river is very windy.)
The day after we arrived, we took a water taxi from the riverfront to Iztuzu Beach. The beach is a 4.5-km long narrow spit of land lying in-between the Meditteranean Sea and the Dalyan River. A Dutch publication cited Iztuzu as the best European beach destination, and it was easy to see why: crystal-clear water, clean sand, and great amenities. On top of that, the beach is a prime nesting ground for loggerhead turtles. There are marked zones that protect the turtle nests. There is a Turtle Rehabilitation Center at the opposite end of the beach from the boat drop-off point. At that end, there is also a bus that returns to Dalyan. The conservation efforts at Iztuzu Beach have been extremely successful.
There are many different half-day and full-day boat tours offered at the riverfront. We found a very reasonably-priced private full-day tour for our second day. The morning portion of the tour included a stop at Ala Golu, a small lake where it is easy to spot loggerhead turtles feeding. We continued downstream for snorkeling in the sea. Afterward, we traveled upstream until we reached Lake Koycegiz. There, we ate a delicious Turkish lunch, after which the kids jumped in for another swim. On our way back to Dalyan, we stopped at the Dalyan Mud Baths.
Directly across the river from Dalyan are the Lycian Rock Tombs. They were built into the cliffs over 2000 years ago. There is a path that one can hike up to get a close-up view.
While not the same as snorkeling in the tropical reefs, the clear water makes fish easy to spot. Caves along the coast are among the more popular snorkel sites. The boat had floating tubes for the kids, although my son later handed his to me while swimming so that he could dive below the surface.
We found the Turks extremely hospitable. In fact, it is often stated that many Turks believe "every guest is a gift from God." The boat captain invited the kids to steer for a part of the ride.
Pammukale
Travertines
The travertine cascades of Pammukale are a UNESCO World Heritage site. Pammukale has been used as a spa since the 2nd century B.C. Everything in and around the village of Pammukale is within a 15-minute walk, including the entrance to the park just outside the village. Bring sandals, sunglasses, and a camera. You can bring a bathing suit to swim at the springs at the top of the travertine falls.
To get to Pammukale, first travel to the city of Denizli, which can be reached by bus, train, or airplane. From Denizli, a taxi will take about 17 minutes, and there are also minibusses which take a little bit longer. It is possible to visit the travertines and Hierapolis (see next section) with a 1-night stay on a short schedule, or book two nights if you have more time.
In the photo gallery below, click on the pictures to see the complete full images.
Hierapolis
The ruins of the ancient city of Hierapolis are almost immediately adjacent to the top of the Pammukale travertines. Hierapolis also has World Heritage status. Although the ruins are not as intact as Ephesus, the site includes many significant structures. It is literally an open-air museum. We did not hire a guide to help us understand the history behind all the ruins. In hindsight, I would highly recommend doing so. Hierapolis seems to get overshadowed by the Pammukale travertines in many travel guides, which unjustly gloss over it as just another ancient Roman ruin. Booking two nights in Pammukale rather than one allows extra time to spend exploring Hierapolis.
The ruins of the Ploutonion at Hierapolis
Ephesus
Ephesus is the largest excavated archaeological site in the world. At its peak 2000 years ago, it was the second-largest city in the Roman Empire. The city went into a long period of decline starting in the 3rd century. It was abandoned by the 15th century. There is so much that has been well-preserved that meandering around the site gives you the feeling that you have stepped back in time. The two-story facade in the photo above was the entrance to the Library of Celsus, the third largest library of the ancient world.
The distance from Selcuk to the entrance of the site is 3 km. We took one of the frequent minibusses to reach the site, and we returned on foot.
Selcuk
Although primarily a gateway city to the Ephesus ruins, Selcuk is an interesting destination in its own right. When founded by the Greeks, Ephesus was initially situated where Selcuk sits today. Just a few hundred feet outside the city limits is the site of the Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. It is marked by a column composed of fragments discovered at the site.
As the harbor next to Ephesus silted, the population gradually relocated back to Selcuk. Present-day Selcuk has remnants of aqueducts constructed during the Byzantine Era. Migrating storks that live in Selcuk half the year now make their nests on the aqueducts.
Worth a visit are two Byzantine ruins that are visible from the Temple of Artemis site. The Selcuk Castle (the photo to the right is the entrance) sits at the highest point on Ayasuluk Hill. In front of that is the Basilica of St. John, constructed in the 6th century. It is reputed to be the location of the tomb of John the Apostle.
Strolling around the town is very pleasant. Selcuk is less than a mile wide, from east to west. Because the archaeological sites are all west of the town, the west side is where you will find the majority of hotels.
While in Selcuk, we booked a half-day tour. First, we visited the House of Virgin Mary, located 7 km outside Selcuk. Afterward, we went to a carpet weaving co-op where we ate a Turkish lunch and then had a hands-on demonstration of the process for weaving Turkish rugs.
Cappadocia
Along with Istanbul, Cappadocia is one of the two "must-visit" destinations in Turkey. It is best known for its unusual landscape, characterized by fairy chimneys. Although they appear in other parts of the world (e.g., Bryce Canyon in Utah), in Cappadocia, these geological features became a part of the ancient civilizations that developed. People started building underground cities here nearly 3000 years ago, and above the ground are many cave houses built into the rocks.
There are two airports in Cappadocia. Although the airport near Nevsehir is closer to the tourist attractions, there are far more flight options into Kayseri, the largest city in Cappadocia. There are about five popular towns in the region to stay. We chose Goreme because it is the busiest. It is also the best choice for visitors who do not want to rent a car. There is a convenient shuttle bus from Kayseri's airport to Goreme. Tickets cost about $10, and the trip takes about 70 minutes. The bus we took was impressively high quality, comfortable, and they even came around with snacks. It was nighttime when the bus dropped us off in the center of town. From there, we took a short taxi ride uphill to our hotel.
Cappadocia's two most unique tourist attractions are the underground cities and the hot air balloon rides. The balloon flights generally take off at 5 AM. Also, flights sometimes get canceled in the morning, at the last minute, if weather conditions are unsafe. For those reasons, plus we were only visiting for two full days, we decided not to include a balloon ride on our itinerary. There are many things to see and do in Cappadocia.
Goreme
We stayed at the Melek Cave Hotel located at the top of a hill. It offers cave rooms, i.e., rooms created by cutting into the rock. There are many cave hotels in Cappadocia. A short walk downhill leads to the town center, where you can find restaurants, shops, and cafes. www.melekcave.com
The morning of our second day in Goreme, we toured the Goreme Open Air Museum. It is 1-kilometer from town. A walking path leads to many churches, chapels, and monasteries cut into the rocks in the 10th through 12th centuries. Some contain very elaborate frescoes. We spent about an hour at this site. A visit here would be one of our top recommendations.
All visitors to Cappadocia should consider hiking at least one of the trails in Goreme National Park. After visiting the Goreme Open Air Museum, we headed to the Zemi Valley trail. The trail entrance is on the road between the Goreme and the open-air museum. The hike is relatively short, only 2 to 3 hours, and leads you through clusters of fairytale chimneys.
After our hike and lunch, upon the request of the kids, we went horseback riding. There are several horse ranches just outside the town. Although you can book through a tour agency, we recommend booking directly at one of the ranches.
Derinkuyu, Ihlara Valley, and Avanos
The evening we arrived, the staff at our hotel arranged for us a day trip to an underground city. The following morning, a van took us to Derinkuyu. Located about 22 miles south of Goreme, the town is famous for having the largest excavated underground city in Cappadocia. There are no explanatory signs, so it is best to come with a knowledgeable tour guide.
Citizens typically went underground in these cities as safe havens from invaders. They could close off the entrances with stone doors. Derinkuyu has 5 levels and could accommodate 20,000 people.
After seeing the underground city, we rode 33 miles southwest to the Ihlara Valley. We descended 400 steps and then hiked for 2 hours in the canyon. At various spots, there are churches cut into the rocks in the canyon walls. We were able to visit the Agacalti Church, built around the 7th century.
There was a 1-hour lunch stop in the middle of the Ihlara Valley hike. Tables are set up in huts in the Melendiz Stream that runs through the valley. The restaurant at the site served good-quality standard local cuisine.
For dinner, we made a reservation at Evranos Restaurant. It is in the town of Avanos, a 15-minute taxi ride north of Goreme. We ate a multi-course meal in a large cave dining hall while watching traditional Turkish dance performances. Pictured to the right is a female whirling dervish. (Earlier, we saw the more traditional male whirling dervish.)
In between the performances, the entertainment area was opened up as a dance floor for the diners. The highlight of the evening was the final belly dancing performance. The shows last between 3 and 4 hours.
Food and Beverages