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EL SALVADOR
A Hidden Gem in Central America
After visiting El Salvador, I have concluded that the picture many media sources paint about this country appears disconnected from reality. Perhaps this is partly due to a lag in keeping up with improving conditions. The crime rate has decreased significantly in recent years. I was impressed to notice that El Salvador has a large middle class. Domestic travelers often greatly outnumber foreigners at tourist attractions and recreational sites. Crime has not completely vanished. In San Salvador, it is common to see an armed security guard standing in front of businesses. Nevertheless, the general atmosphere of the country is pleasant. In some smaller villages, such as El Tunco, it can be hard to imagine that El Salvador has crime.
Our trip to El Salvador included overnight stays in San Salvador, El Tunco, and Lake Coatepeque.
Travel Tips:
The official currency of El Salvador is the U.S. dollar. Although there is no currency exchange, some U.S. credit card companies will charge a 'foreign transaction fee' anyway. Be sure to use a credit card that does not charge foreign transaction fees.
Also, note that English is not universally well-understood in El Salvador. However, even a small amount of basic Spanish skills will go a long way.
Getting Around
The one thing I would have done differently on our El Salvador trip is I would have rented a car. I was dissuaded from doing so because some of the travel guides I read made it sound scary to drive around in El Salvador. However, I later learned that renting a car in El Salvador is very inexpensive (unlike in Belize.) Although the public transportation network is quite extensive, a rental car would have provided a lot more options and flexibility with our schedule. I highly recommend renting a car from the airport.
That being said, riding around on public transportation was a great cultural experience, extremely cheap, and fairly easy to figure out. While researching for this trip, I came across many posters describing the local transport as "chicken buses." Well, we had no complaints riding in them. Any time I had any uncertainty about where to exit the bus on our way to a destination, there was always a passenger who was happy to help. Once the locals identify you as a tourist, they will make sure you find your way!
As a final comment, I would clear up a misconception about the airport taxis. I have read postings claiming that taxis try to gouge tourists and that it is best to arrange for a shuttle from the airport. Unless you can manage to arrange a free shuttle, I think taking a taxi is, in fact, the most practical choice. While it is true that there are no meters, and you should inquire about the price ahead of time, the quotes I got going to or from the airport were consistently $30. Whether or not this is a 'gringo' price, it seemed very reasonable given the distance.
Santa Tecla
Santa Tecla is a small city that begins just about a mile beyond the western city limits of San Salvador. It was founded in 1854 after the capital was destroyed by an earthquake. It is definitely worth a visit, or perhaps more accurately a "must visit." It is also a compelling alternative to San Salvador as a base for booking a hotel. From San Benito, the 101D bus makes a few stops along Calle La Mascota. We took this bus to San Martin Park in Santa Tecla. The Mercado Municipal de Santa Tecla extends for the two blocks between San Martin Park and Daniel Hernandez Park. This was a great place to stock up on local tropical fruits. Running parallel one block to the north is Paseo El Carmen, which is lined with nice shops, restaurants, and bars.
Daniel Hernandez Park
El Boqueron
Definitely worth a visit, El Boqueron Park is located on top of the San Salvador Volcano. The park is very busy on weekends. The main attraction is the view of the volcano crater, which is about a 5-10 minute hike up from the park entrance. Along the road leading up to the park, there are many vendors selling things to eat. We bought wild strawberries and blackberries.
From Santa Tecla, you can reach the park on a road that heads north. The distance is about 11 km. By taxi, it takes about 30 minutes. Also, bus 103 runs between Santa Tecla and the park. We took a taxi on the way up and returned by bus. However, because the last bus from Boqueron Park leaves at 4 PM, using public transportation eliminated a lot of good dining options of the restaurants near the park.
El Tunco
There are many great coastal towns to visit in El Salvador. El Tunco is perhaps one the best. It is situated just 9 kilometers west of the main port city of La Libertad, about an hour from San Salvador by bus. The bus station for the 102A bus to El Tunco is on 17 Avenida Sur. Just find a taxi and ask for the bus station to La Libertad.
Hotel Mopelia was a good value and featured private air-conditioned cabins. Location is not an issue. Everything in El Tunco is within a 5-10 minute walk, with one long main street running parallel to the ocean.
El Tunco has numerous great options for food. Esquina Los Amigos has El Salvadorean pupusas for $1. Two for lunch can fill you up. My kids loved the fish pupusas. Their most unique pupusa filling is loroco, which is a native flower. For drinks, their fruit licuados are fantastic. I returned for a second melon licuado, and the kids became addicted to the banana con leche.
El Tunco is world-renowned for surfing. The conditions are great, the water is shallow many meters from the shore, and shark attacks in El Salvador are unheard of! Just next door to Esquina Los Amigos, Wayo Surf School offers 90-minute lessons at a fraction of the price you'll pay in the US. Lessons are scheduled every day based on the tide. The instructors are highly professional and effective.
Lake Coatepeque
After our stay in El Tunco, we returned to San Salvador. From there, we took the 201 bus toward Santa Ana. We got off at the town of El Congo and then took a 20-minute ride on the 249 bus. Our final destination was Captain Morgan's Hostel on Lake Coatepeque. Before the trip, I had deliberated between staying here or in Santa Ana and ultimately was very happy with my decision.
Lake Coatepeque is a volcanic crater lake formed thousands of years ago. Apart from swimming, other lake activities include kayaking, paddle boarding, and jet skiing. Also, while a rental car at this location would have undoubtedly been a plus, Captain Morgan's makes a great base for day trips.
We took a bus from El Congo to Santa Ana, the second-biggest city in El Salvador. It is much smaller than San Salvador and has a few nicely preserved colonial buildings in the center. We spent a couple of hours wandering around. We then took the 218 bus from Santa Ana to Chalchuapa. The ride is about 30 minutes and the bus drops you off in the center of town, about a 10-minute walk to the Tazumal ruins. This is arguably the best Mayan ruins site in El Salvador. Near the site are many souvenir stands and great places to have lunch.
From Captain Morgan's, it is also possible to make a day trip to hike up the Santa Ana volcano. However, without a rental car, you need to catch an early morning bus. Hiking the volcano must be done as a tour, and there is only 1 per day, starting at 11 AM. The hike is a highly recommended excursion.
Another day trip option we considered was a rainforest zipline tour. Apaneca Canopy Tours offers these. Apaneca is a small municipality about a 1.5-hour drive from Lake Coatepeque.